At last, we’ve made it to Honduras.  We are so happy.  

Last night, we had been treated to a special dinner with products from the region, and Rosita, the painter from the decoupage class had been invited as she enjoyed meeting me the other day.  This time she got to meet Paul, and the conversation flowed around the table over a couple of glasses of wine. Carmen asked us to return in 3,4 or 5 years, as she would like to show us around the whole of Guatemala.  All the bits we missed. We were presented with parting gifts as a reminder of Chiquimula, and what great memories we shall have of the people we met there.

After breakfasting this morning with Carmen, we said our goodbyes to her, Clarita and Cristian, and were on our way. It was all rather emotional, so we were glad once we had turned right out of the town and were back on our way again.

After almost three weeks away from the bike, it felt surprisingly like home for us. We stopped after ¾ hour, and Paul said he felt good, no aches or pains, just glad to be going again.  It was a pleasant surprise how the roads and their traffic all felt very familiar, I’m guessing the time off allowed our brains to catch up with us a bit…….

So today’s destination was only to make it over the border into Honduras.  We had read up about procedures here, and some people have a quick and easy experience, others it seems to be more difficult.

Ours was destined to be straightforward today, the roads were clear, and we were suddenly upon the exit from Guatemala. First task was to cancel our vehicle import permit into Guatemala, and after a little bit of direction (still no signs!), Paul had done that and the sticker was removed from our bike, meaning we could no longer drive on Guatemalan roads. Then to change our Guatemalan Quetzales into Honduran Lempira (at a rate of 3 to 1, so the wallet is full of notes again). After two easy exit stamps in our passports, it was a short walk for me, and a little ride for Paul before beginning everything again in reverse.

At the Honduran passport office, this time we were required to provide fingerprints and iris recognition, and the passport was stamped by using a computer! That’s a first. There was a small $3 fee each for this service.

Then it was for Paul to import the bike, however, when he popped his head round the door into the correct office at 12.20 pm, he was told they were at lunch til 1pm. The same with the bank next door as well. We sat and idled the time, and I went off to the loo. When I returned, two American guys from Alaska had arrived, Troy and Tracy.  They had ridden from Alaska and are riding to Argentina.  It was certainly good to get into conversation with them, as we’ve been lacking some speaking English to others here for a while! I was also engulfed by a coach load of French people very interested in our bike, and what we were doing.

The import office opened, and so began Paul on a seemingly endless round of getting photocopies of documents required for who knows what, but he remained patient, and ¾ hour later, and after another trip to pay in the bank next door, we were on our way.

The hotel we’ve booked is in the Mayan town of Copan, and was a short 6 mile ride away, ending in cobbles, not our favourite, however the town is very pretty, and once again the people extremely friendly. We wheeled bikey in behind some locked gates, where he will stay for a couple of nights.

Paul was given the all clear by the Doctor yesterday.  We are so happy.

Of course there are a few instructions for the onward journey, things to be careful of, and to make sure Paul rests well, and we must look out for returning symptoms.

I must say though, that Paul is returned and restored to how he was when we first began our trip.  No doubt me, as well.  We’ve had almost three weeks away from riding, with nothing much else to do than rest and recuperate (once Paul began to improve anyway).

On Sunday Carmen gave us a tour of all of Chiquimula, and it’s very attractive surrounds. We learnt the history of the local area, and Carmen was a great guide.  She is truly a star.

This morning we were given a special occasion breakfast of Chicarrones, frijoles, stuffed tortillas, and rice pudding.  It was lovely. Apparently a bon voyage dinner is planned for tonight as well.  We have been treated like royalty here.  How will I ever cope returning to hand washing in the sink?!

So tomorrow we head for Honduras, at last.  We were only ever planning to stay three nights in Guatemala-but someone had other plans for us. It’s not a long ride tomorrow, but there will be a border crossing, so more than enough to contend with on our first day back, then we head to Copan and the famous Copan ruins.

Mexico and Central America are certainly busy places teeming with life, people living there lives, mainly out of doors because of the good weather.  There’s a constant feast of colour and noise like we have never encountered in our lives. Mopeds, motorbikes, lorries, chicken buses, people  walking, an incessant buzz. It never, ever stops. I suppose that is Latin American charm! Charming, it most certainly is.

Paul had improved a great deal over the last few days, I have even heard him saying he is bored now.  A very good sign.

We are waiting to see the Doctor tomorrow, hopefully for the all clear.

Yesterday we had a great afternoon looking at maps and thinking about our onward journey, and getting very enthusiastic about what’s coming.

Also yesterday, Carmen the owner of the hotel, who has befriended us now, invited me along to her decoupage class, which was very enjoyable.  She was making painted and decorated bottles for Christmas, and told me it was her stress relief.  Carmen has been so kind, and it really has been the most wonderful oasis for us at the hostal, the gardens that have been created here are beautiful, the daily visit from the humming bird, other exotic birds, tortoises, and the willingness to make sure that we are properly cared for is astounding.  The kindness of strangers…………..

We are filling our days by small walks, lounging(!), and endlessly visiting the cash machine, as everywhere here takes only cash(!), and it has been quite problematic as the amounts you can withdraw at any one time are relatively small to us.  The machines are also quite temperamental, deciding on a whim if you can or can’t have cash today.  All very different to what we are used to, but we are adapting.

A week after Paul was taken ill, we are still in Chiquimula. Our days have been filled with recovery and recuperation. Paul is improving quickly. Each day he had three nebuliser treatments followed by a "slapping massage" to his lungs. The physiotherapist told him yesterday that his lungs are almost clear.

The antibiotic cocktail will continue until Friday, when the Doctor will come to check Paul's progress.

Paul is being very patient, at the beginning because he had no choice. He is now chirpy and optimistic for a full recovery meaning that we can continue our trip, once he has rested enough.

Of course, this has been an extremely challenging time for us. Not one we had imagined or hoped for on setting out. Even though we already knew well enough that everything can change in an instant. We had inoculations for many things, but never imagined this one. To know it has caused a lot of stress and worry to our loved ones and friends, is not a good thought.

However, if we can,we want to carry on, as before we will take care to ride within our limits, eat as well as possible, exercise and rest for two or more days a week.

It can be stressful mentally and physically this life we've chosen on the road, with something new at every corner, but it has also been one of the most exciting times of our lives. The memories we have created this far are astounding, we feel both privileged and enthused by life.

These last few days have been very difficult for us.

Paul’s illness was getting worse, and his temperature had risen to 40 c/104 f so we went for more blood tests, another medical examination an x-Ray and MRI scan which showed that Paul is suffering from bronchial pneumonia in his right lung.

It seems likely that Paul picked up bacteria from somebody on our travels, and then the combination of changing climates and altitudes has taxed his already fatigued body, and made him ill.

It has been extremely painful for him, and he had lost his appetite, and could barely walk to the bathroom.

He has been tended to by a wonderful doctor, and is being cared for in one of the many local hospitals, here in Chiquimula.  They have been treating him with antibiotics, oxygen and pulmonary therapy.  

When I visited the hospital yesterday, Paul's fever seems to have gone and if all looks well he should be allowed out of hospital today

I'm feeling very relieved that he seems more like Paul now, poor thing. Even back to being cheeky "when is it they're coming to harvest my kidney?”

In Chiquimula, we are staying in a small Hostal with just 12 rooms. This Hostal (Casa Vieja) is owned by Carmen, and run by her and her three staff, Clarita, Christian and the gardener, whose name is too difficult for me to catch!

Since day one of Paul being ill, Carmen has gone out of her way to be helpful to us, arranging for special foods to be bought and cooked (these include, fresh wonderful fruit, homemade chicken soup, jellies, Gatorade drinks), and then arranging and taking us to many Doctor’s appointments, before running me to and fro to the hospital.  Not only that, Carmen also arranged for Paul to see her own nephew, Dr Medina, a very busy local Doctor.  I think Carmen knows everyone in this town!

Carmen told me that she is happy to do this for us, but especially because her daughter lives in France, so she knows what it’s like to be alone in a strange country. This support has been truly amazing, and has made us feel reassured in this tricky situation.

My Spanish is very basic, and Paul’s is much better, but I’m finding that I’m getting a lot of practice, and hope that means I’m improving. That was the idea, but I’m not sure we were thinking of practicing quite like this.

The messages of support we have received from home have also been wonderful, and mean a lot.

Once Paul returns to the Hostal, there will be a period of recovery, and the weather is pretty perfect here, about 25 degrees Celsius, not much rain. Dr Medina will be coming to visit Paul regularly at the Hostal to check on his progress.

Luckily, we have a lot of films and tv downloaded on to our laptop, so we shall no doubt, be doing a lot of viewing, in between little walks, and fresh air.

Guatemala has proved itself to be a friendly country, so completely at odds with everything we were told. The general feel to it in this town is as one big family, caring for each other, and being Latin in descent, the peoples here are happy to embrace and welcome you into their lives.